Dinner in Roero
Roero’s gastronomic tradition has links to traditional southern Piedmont cuisine, which is based on beef (in particular from the Fassona breed), primi using fresh pasta, and wonderful forest delicacies such as mushrooms and truffles. One particular feature is the original local fruit and vegetables, such as Canale peaches and Madernassa pears. We demonstrate what Roero chefs can do with these unique local ingredients via five dishes, which also go perfectly with Roero DOCG Bianco and Rosso.
Andrea Sperone Trattoria Belvedere Roero / Monteu Roero
Uovo in Cocotte con Tartufo
Egg en Cocotte with Truffle
A typically autumnal dish. This originated in France and then spread to nearby Piedmont and the rest of the world.
1 egg, 85g cream, 10g grated Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, 1 slice of brioche, salt, pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C; separate the egg white from the yolk and mix it in a blender with the cream, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into the cocotte dish (which should be suitable for oven use) and place the yolk in the middle. Bake in the oven for 7 to 8 minutes until the top is golden brown (the yolk must be soft); grate the truffle over the hot egg to enhance its aromas, and serve in a pan with lightly toasted brioche.
A young, fresh Roero DOCG Bianco, not matured for too long, would go wonderfully with the combination of egg and truffle.
Valentina Milani Tre Galine / Canale
This typical winter dish is cooked in the oven or in a pan. We are preparing it with roasted ham from Canale (matured in Arneis) and Bra DOP, a soft cow’s milk cheese.
INGREDIENTS (MAKES 6 CAPONETS):
Savoy cabbage, six thin slices of roasted Canale ham, 200g lightly seasoned Bra PDO, breadcrumbs, eggs for breadcrumb coating
Wash the savoy cabbage leaves, blanch for two minutes, and put on a cloth to cool. Once cooled, place a slice of ham and a strip of Bra DOP on the cabbage leaf and roll it up. Beat the eggs for the breadcrumb coating, dip the caponets in the egg and then the breadcrumbs, and fry for five minutes in hot olive oil. Make a pea and basil emulsion and serve the caponet on it.
This dish would go perfectly with a Roero DOCG Bianco, the flavour, acidity and bollicine of which contrasts well with the caponet.
Angelo Valsania Marcelin / Montà
Tajarin al doppio Pomodoro
Tajarin with Tomatoes Two Ways
A classic of Piedmont cuisine, this typical pasta dish has been reinterpreted by Angelo Valsania with an extra portion of tomatoes.
Half a kilo of tajarin pasta, 400g Datterini tomatoes, 100g mascarpone, a beef tomato, a clove of garlic, 7 green basil leaves, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, 3g isinglass, butter, salt, pepper
Mix the Datterini tomatoes with half a clove of garlic, 4-5 green basil leaves and a pinch of salt. Blanch the tomato in salted boiling water, cool in water and ice, peel, cut into quarters and julienne. Spread the Datterini tomatoes over a baking tray to make a cream and bake in the oven at 180°C for 20 minutes. To make the mousse, use 100g creamed tomatoes, 100g mascarpone, salt, pepper and 3g isinglass. Heat the gelatine with the creamed tomatoes, chill, and prepare a round disc 4cm wide and 1cm thick. For the wafers, spread some grated Parmigiano Reggiano DOP over a sheet of baking paper using a cookie cutter and microwave until you achieve a crisp wafer. Cook the tajarin in salted water for a few minutes. At the same time, heat some local extra virgin olive oil with garlic and add the beef tomato julienne. Drain well, add to the pan and coat with the sauce, and add a small piece of butter and a julienne of some basil leaves. Roll up the tajarin, place on the plate and sprinkle over the tomato powder. Place the tomato mousse on a parmesan crisp in another bowl and finish with another parmesan waffle.
This complex, rich dish would go well with a white wine that is similarly substantial but not too impetuous: a mature Roero DOCG Riserva Bianco, well rounded yet fruity.
Bruno Forno Cantina dei Cacciatori / Monteu Roero
Coniglio Grigio di Carmagnola con Funghi Porcini
Carmagnola Grey Rabbit with Porcini Mushrooms
The Carmagnola is one of the few remaining Piedmont rabbit breeds, and is reared entirely on grass and natural feed. The meat of this breed, raised in Pralormo right next to Roero, is refined, delicate and hearty.
A chopped rabbit, a medium onion, a carrot, a stick of celery, a sprig of rosemary, 6 finely chopped sage leaves, a glass of Roero DOCG Bianco, a handful of dried mushrooms, salt, extra virgin olive oil, 2 or 3 ounces of porcini mushrooms to taste.
Wash the meat well, chop the vegetables and sauté in extra virgin olive oil, dust the rabbit in flour and fry in the pan, add salt, and deglaze with a glass of Roero DOCG Bianco. Add a ladleful of hot stock and a handful of chopped dried mushrooms. Bring to the boil. Separately fry 2 or 3g of porcini mushrooms with a clove of garlic (which you should then remove). Add to the cooked rabbit, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
The meat of this rabbit breed is particularly strong and firm, and the aromatic porcini mushrooms also require contrast: a Roero DOCG Rosso that is not overly mature would therefore be ideal.
Enrico Grasso Osteria Di Vin Roero / Vezza d’Alba
Guancia di Vitello brasato al Vino rosso
Veal Cheeks in Red Wine
Fassona beef – marinated in red wine and enhanced with herb aromas.
INGREDIENTS (SERVES 4):
2 veal cheeks, 2 carrots, 2 sticks of celery, 1 onion, 5/6 cloves of garlic, rosemary, thyme, 2 bay leaves, salt, 1.5 litres Roero DOCG Rosso.
Trim the excess fat from the veal cheeks then marinate in the wine for a few hours. Then cook over a low heat, ensuring that the meat is entirely covered by the liquid. Halfway through the cooking process, add the salt and the aromatic herbs. Leave to cook for at least 3-4 hours until the meat is very soft. Cut into good-sized pieces with lots of the strained cooking juices, and serve hot with baked potatoes, mashed potatoes or carrots.
This dish, with its varied elements and enticing aromas, would go well with a Roero DOCG Riserva Rosso boasting well-integrated tannins.